Shaving is a Black man's dread. We will often take the option of running to a barber for a clipper shave. Sure enough the thought of those unsightly razor bumps, and the discomfort that comes with them is going to make any man cringe.
The clipper option is great, as it cuts the hair just above the surface of the skin, and minimizes the risk of ingrown hair or hair curling back into the skin as it grows.
However, if your job requires you to be clean shaven, then a slight stubble just isn't going to cut it, no pun intended. There are corporate and social situations that will often call for the clean shave. If you are going to take this option, even if it is to give your facial hair a cleaner, more crisp finish, then here are some guides to help you and your skin along, not to mention your confidence.
Step 1. Prep the skin. Before taking a razor to the skin, make sure the skin is well prepped. The most important item to have for this is TIME. A clean razor shave CANNOT be rushed!!! Use a soft face cloth soaked in hot but NOT scalding water, to open the pores and soften the hair. Luke warm water won't do what you need it to, so make sure the water is hot. Repeat this several times. Take your time, as massaging like this will also increase blood circulation to the area and make the skin more receptive to the blade.
Step 2. Once you are satisfied that the area is quite warm and adequately prepped, massage the skin with a good quality, 100% natural shave oil. Apply liberally. The first coating will probably soak deep into the open pores, an additional 2 coats will keep the area massaged and feeling good for the shave to come and provide adequate lubrication for the blade.
Step 3. Begin the shave with a clean, fresh razor. The neck area should be shaved in an upward direction as that is the general direction of growth for that area, this is often difficult to see with the tight curl pattern of Black hair. The area from the temples down to the jawline should be shaved downward, although the jawline is more of a diagonal down/ forwards stroke as that is the pattern of hair growth in that area. Upper lip, lower lip and chin, areas of facial hair growth that form what is commonly known as the goatee are all shaved with downward strokes.
Be firm but gentle with that blade. The skin is soft from all the prep and flowing with blood. The prep also minimizes the need to go over an area more than once with the razor, that is why it is so important to have ample time to prep and shave rather than rush.
Step 4. After your shave is complete, wash the area with a 100% natural moisturizing facial cleanser and rinse with warm water. Follow that up with cool water to help close the pores. An Aloe Vera astringent will further tighten the pores to keep dirt and bacteria out, elements that cause skin irritation after a shave.
Step 5. Finally, use a 100% natural aftershave balm or butter to moisturize the skin. Dry flaky skin can impede the natural growth of hair and cause ingrown hair, hence shaving bumps.
We emphasize purity of natural products because there are many out there that claim to be natural but are full of harmful chemical fillers and alcohol that dry the skin and cause irritation that leads to breakouts. We also do not recommend conventional shave gels, foams or even soaps as they are incredibly drying and do not nourish the skin and protect it adequately for what is already essentially a harsh treatment. Keep the skin clean and get into the habit of exfoliating once or twice a week to remove dead skin cells and promote regeneration. MOISTURIZE regularly to keep the skin supple, if you are keeping a beard, the moisturizer will keep the hair healthy, soft and shiny.
B&T
Wednesday 14 November 2012
Thursday 1 November 2012
The right suit
The right suit is more than just a question of colour, cut and style mean far more. There is nothing like the guy who looks like a low down pimp in an oversized pin striped number. I have to say, I've watched my share of stand up comedians in these atrocities, These guys have the money to get a really nice suite tailored but will opt for the sheets or drapes that were cut and sewn by a visually impaired tailor. So before you time warp yourself to the 1930s and buy a (ahem) "classic", here are some tips to keep in mind.
Know what you are looking for and if you don't, do your research! Never let the Hulk (sales associate) dressed in a page boy's suit tell you how "good" you look! There is just too much of that going around lately!! If you pay attention, you'll notice he can barely move in that little thing and the veins in his neck are popping because of how tight the shirt collar is. Ridiculous. I digress. Track down a department store with a decent selection of suits or a tailor who carries a variety of styles and sizes.
Get measured so that you know what size you should be looking for. Unless you have time to kill fitting stuff you have no business trying, you'll probably want to streamline the process by knowing your size off hand. If you find your weight changes, it may also be a good idea to get measured periodically so you always have the right fit.
The suit should fit well at the shoulders and chest. The shoulders should not droop or extend beyond your own shoulders, if it does, the suit is too big. The chest should not be difficult to button as this would suggest it is too small nor should it be too loose. There really should be no more than a fist's worth between the suite and your chest. The bottom of the jacket should fit easily into our hands when they are down at your sides. A tailor usually will need to alter the length of the sleeves. Insist that you’d like a quarter inch of shirt cuff to show. Beware of sales men who tell you that the shoulders can be taken in, if it doesn't fit there it is simply is not going to fit.
Number of buttons is really a question of preference, unless you are looking at something that has four or more buttons down the center, then it's an absolute No! The same applies with vents in the rear of the jacket. Stay away from anything that has no vents. Absolutely!
Try on the whole suit Do Not try the jacket without the pants and a shirt and shoes. A good store or tailor should be able to let you try the suit with a shirt and dress shoes even if you didn't go with your own.
The rise of the pants which is the highest point on the pants, should fit well to your comfort and should not be too high or too low. They should fit well with a shirt tucked in. An inch or two can be fixed by a tailor, any more and your ship starts sinking.
Make sure to try on the suit when you go to pick it up. There are usually one or two more tiny tweaks that will need to be done before the suit is finished. Make sure you are prepared with a dress shirt and dress shoes when you go for your final fitting and collection of the suit.
B&T
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| Image courtesy of Andy Newson / FreeDigitalPhotos.net |
Get measured so that you know what size you should be looking for. Unless you have time to kill fitting stuff you have no business trying, you'll probably want to streamline the process by knowing your size off hand. If you find your weight changes, it may also be a good idea to get measured periodically so you always have the right fit.
The suit should fit well at the shoulders and chest. The shoulders should not droop or extend beyond your own shoulders, if it does, the suit is too big. The chest should not be difficult to button as this would suggest it is too small nor should it be too loose. There really should be no more than a fist's worth between the suite and your chest. The bottom of the jacket should fit easily into our hands when they are down at your sides. A tailor usually will need to alter the length of the sleeves. Insist that you’d like a quarter inch of shirt cuff to show. Beware of sales men who tell you that the shoulders can be taken in, if it doesn't fit there it is simply is not going to fit.
Number of buttons is really a question of preference, unless you are looking at something that has four or more buttons down the center, then it's an absolute No! The same applies with vents in the rear of the jacket. Stay away from anything that has no vents. Absolutely!
Try on the whole suit Do Not try the jacket without the pants and a shirt and shoes. A good store or tailor should be able to let you try the suit with a shirt and dress shoes even if you didn't go with your own.
The rise of the pants which is the highest point on the pants, should fit well to your comfort and should not be too high or too low. They should fit well with a shirt tucked in. An inch or two can be fixed by a tailor, any more and your ship starts sinking.
Make sure to try on the suit when you go to pick it up. There are usually one or two more tiny tweaks that will need to be done before the suit is finished. Make sure you are prepared with a dress shirt and dress shoes when you go for your final fitting and collection of the suit.
B&T
Wednesday 31 October 2012
Return of the beard
After many years, the beard is finally coming back. After making several failed attempts at reemergence and the moustache years, it looks like it is finally back. We have to thank music, namely hip hop for bringing back the real. Fitting, that musicians and poets who were generally considered rebels would bring back the beard; the socially unaccepted mark of manhood. Hip hop has once again popularized something once relegated to the social outer limits.
While the beard is celebrating a resurgence, there are still many who believe that it is a look not to be worn in the corporate environment. There is now evidence that this way of thinking is simply personal and preferential. There is no rule, or code that clearly states that beards are unacceptable in the work place. After all, the world has accepted Steve Jobs and his 5 o'clock shadow, chairman of the Fed. Ben Bernanke and former UN secretary general Koffi Annan. Granted, some of these powerful men have always worn facial hair, but this has never impeded their ability to rise far above the expected levels of social norms and many of their clean shaven counterparts.
I am not against clean shaven men or men who wear moustaches. What I am against is the idea that men who wear a beard of any form are unemployable, not upwardly mobile, artists and musicians, free spirits, vegans or raw foodists. These ideas are what those hiding in the shadows are watching and waiting to capitalize on. It is really no different than the idea that a Black kid dressed in a hoody and running an evening errand is a criminal who is running from the scene of a crime must be eliminated. What does a criminal look like?
B&T
While the beard is celebrating a resurgence, there are still many who believe that it is a look not to be worn in the corporate environment. There is now evidence that this way of thinking is simply personal and preferential. There is no rule, or code that clearly states that beards are unacceptable in the work place. After all, the world has accepted Steve Jobs and his 5 o'clock shadow, chairman of the Fed. Ben Bernanke and former UN secretary general Koffi Annan. Granted, some of these powerful men have always worn facial hair, but this has never impeded their ability to rise far above the expected levels of social norms and many of their clean shaven counterparts.
I am not against clean shaven men or men who wear moustaches. What I am against is the idea that men who wear a beard of any form are unemployable, not upwardly mobile, artists and musicians, free spirits, vegans or raw foodists. These ideas are what those hiding in the shadows are watching and waiting to capitalize on. It is really no different than the idea that a Black kid dressed in a hoody and running an evening errand is a criminal who is running from the scene of a crime must be eliminated. What does a criminal look like?
B&T
Sunday 7 October 2012
Welcome.
Welcome to Barber & Tailor. This blog is dedicated to providing grooming tips and guides to the black man who takes his appearance seriously and the women who admire a strong confident man. We aim to dispel any misconceptions around grooming and styling and reinforce positive self image.
Thank you for visiting, please come again.
B&T
Thank you for visiting, please come again.
B&T
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