Shaving is a Black man's dread. We will often take the option of running to a barber for a clipper shave. Sure enough the thought of those unsightly razor bumps, and the discomfort that comes with them is going to make any man cringe.
The clipper option is great, as it cuts the hair just above the surface of the skin, and minimizes the risk of ingrown hair or hair curling back into the skin as it grows.
However, if your job requires you to be clean shaven, then a slight stubble just isn't going to cut it, no pun intended. There are corporate and social situations that will often call for the clean shave. If you are going to take this option, even if it is to give your facial hair a cleaner, more crisp finish, then here are some guides to help you and your skin along, not to mention your confidence.
Step 1. Prep the skin. Before taking a razor to the skin, make sure the skin is well prepped. The most important item to have for this is TIME. A clean razor shave CANNOT be rushed!!! Use a soft face cloth soaked in hot but NOT scalding water, to open the pores and soften the hair. Luke warm water won't do what you need it to, so make sure the water is hot. Repeat this several times. Take your time, as massaging like this will also increase blood circulation to the area and make the skin more receptive to the blade.
Step 2. Once you are satisfied that the area is quite warm and adequately prepped, massage the skin with a good quality, 100% natural shave oil. Apply liberally. The first coating will probably soak deep into the open pores, an additional 2 coats will keep the area massaged and feeling good for the shave to come and provide adequate lubrication for the blade.
Step 3. Begin the shave with a clean, fresh razor. The neck area should be shaved in an upward direction as that is the general direction of growth for that area, this is often difficult to see with the tight curl pattern of Black hair. The area from the temples down to the jawline should be shaved downward, although the jawline is more of a diagonal down/ forwards stroke as that is the pattern of hair growth in that area. Upper lip, lower lip and chin, areas of facial hair growth that form what is commonly known as the goatee are all shaved with downward strokes.
Be firm but gentle with that blade. The skin is soft from all the prep and flowing with blood. The prep also minimizes the need to go over an area more than once with the razor, that is why it is so important to have ample time to prep and shave rather than rush.
Step 4. After your shave is complete, wash the area with a 100% natural moisturizing facial cleanser and rinse with warm water. Follow that up with cool water to help close the pores. An Aloe Vera astringent will further tighten the pores to keep dirt and bacteria out, elements that cause skin irritation after a shave.
Step 5. Finally, use a 100% natural aftershave balm or butter to moisturize the skin. Dry flaky skin can impede the natural growth of hair and cause ingrown hair, hence shaving bumps.
We emphasize purity of natural products because there are many out there that claim to be natural but are full of harmful chemical fillers and alcohol that dry the skin and cause irritation that leads to breakouts. We also do not recommend conventional shave gels, foams or even soaps as they are incredibly drying and do not nourish the skin and protect it adequately for what is already essentially a harsh treatment. Keep the skin clean and get into the habit of exfoliating once or twice a week to remove dead skin cells and promote regeneration. MOISTURIZE regularly to keep the skin supple, if you are keeping a beard, the moisturizer will keep the hair healthy, soft and shiny.
B&T
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